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Swingarm Gaiter Replacement
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r083rt
Thu Aug 31 2017, 03:19pm
Registered Member #857
Joined: Fri Oct 02 2015, 09:47am

Posts: 95
Noticed just yesterday that the swingarm gaiter between the gearbox and swingarm has separated itself on the swingarm side.

It appears it has just come loose but I anticipate replacing it anyway.

There are a number of writeups online including one on this forum that never got resolved:

http://www.hp2enduro.com/hp2e_plugins/forum/forum_viewtopic.php?1761.post

Most of the other writeups seem to indicate it's not too involved of a job but I wanted to see if anyone has undertaken this task?

Additionally, I'm not sure how long the boot has been like this. What else should I check while I'm in there? Is there a chance the final drive oil is contaminated? I'm guessing there is a shaft seal before the final drive.

See pics below for the separation and a gratuitous shot from yesterday's ride









[ Edited Thu Aug 31 2017, 03:21pm ]
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zool
Sat Sep 02 2017, 10:03am
Registered Member #542
Joined: Tue Apr 24 2012, 09:13am

Posts: 34
While replacing gaiter check and lube splines on both ends of drive shaft. Also grease gaiters when installing. It will provide additional water protection. There is no chance that oil is contaminated but there might be some rust on shaft. You can find lot info on advrider for r1200gs. I did same task on r1200gs adv but gaiter is different, all other steps are identical.
Cheers
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Spout
Wed Sep 20 2017, 01:21pm
Registered Member #371
Joined: Wed Feb 09 2011, 10:42am

Posts: 17
The HP2 swing arm has a drain hole (unlike the standard GS). If this isn't blocked there should be no water damage.
You'll find out when you strip everything down to change the gaiter.
There is less room on the HP than GS to fiddle with this gaitor. I found it easier to take swing arm off than just pull the shaft (good chance to grease bearings).
Good luck.
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r083rt
Fri Apr 13 2018, 04:45am
Registered Member #857
Joined: Fri Oct 02 2015, 09:47am

Posts: 95
Well, I've taken the plunge and removed the swingarm on my '06. Really not too hard of an operation if you're methodical about it.

I removed it to get to the gaitor between the swingarm and the transmission which had fatigued and disconnected itself from the swingarm.

I'm still in the process of gathering parts for reassembly so it may be a week or so before it's all buttoned up.

I'll post some more pictures in the coming days but I'm happy to provide specific photos if anyone needs one.


This video proved useful as a reference when I was removing the arm:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BsS8y6YlbkM




[ Edited Fri Apr 13 2018, 04:49am ]
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r083rt
Sat Apr 21 2018, 05:51am
Registered Member #857
Joined: Fri Oct 02 2015, 09:47am

Posts: 95
Not much progress on the bike since last post. I have the gaiter on order from the local dealership but it's taking its sweet time to get here.

I also ordered some GL5 oil and picked up some moly paste for the shaft splines. Can anyone chime in on this specific paste grease? Everything I've read seems to indicate that it will work but I'm not 100% sure. See the safety data sheet below and note the molybdenum content is between 50-70%.

MOLYKOTE M77 PASTE

I also found a slick graduated bottle with a nozzle at a beauty supply store. It even has a mark for 180 ml which, as I understand it, is the amount to add into the final drive. (Previously was 200 ml).









[ Edited Sat Apr 21 2018, 06:15am ]
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r083rt
Sat Apr 21 2018, 06:38am
Registered Member #857
Joined: Fri Oct 02 2015, 09:47am

Posts: 95
More info on the M77 paste grease. I'm concerned that the max temperature isn't as high as some other greases that I've read about. Some even going as high as ~450°C (750°F).

https://www.fmv.se/FTP/Drivmedel%202016/datablad/M0743-0850XX_MOLYKOTE%20M77.pdf

"Suitable for lubrication points with low to moderate loads and low speeds which are subjected to water and extreme temperatures. At temperatures above 230°C (446°F), the carrier volatilizes leaving virtually no residue, and the remaining dry sliding film itself takes over the lubrication up to +400°C (+662°F)."

At the same time, I wonder if I'm just being paranoid as well and if the temperatures even approach those levels. I'm sure any moly grease is better than none.

[ Edited Sat Apr 21 2018, 06:41am ]
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bwanainoz
Sat Apr 21 2018, 09:21am
Registered Member #630
Joined: Sun Jan 20 2013, 10:11am

Posts: 47
Link: https://www.bobsbmw.com/store/product/br-2-plus-molykote-spline-lube

BR 2 PLUS MOLYKOTE SPLINE LUBE
PRODUCT DETAILS
DESCRIPTION

THE BMW recommended Spline Lube for routine maintenance on drive shafts, input shafts, etc. It is a high load, long-term lubricant that resists water washout.

Container holds 400 grams (14.1 oz.) and unless you own several motorcycles, will probably be sufficient for a lifetime supply.
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r083rt
Sat Apr 21 2018, 03:44pm
Registered Member #857
Joined: Fri Oct 02 2015, 09:47am

Posts: 95
Cheers, thanks for that link.

That looks like a better route. Here are the specs on the BR2 Plus:

http://www.mercouris.gr/sites/default/files/pdf/Molykote_BR-2_Plus_TDS.pdf

[ Edited Sat Apr 21 2018, 03:45pm ]
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r083rt
Sat Apr 21 2018, 05:48pm
Registered Member #857
Joined: Fri Oct 02 2015, 09:47am

Posts: 95
Looks like I'm going to be replacing the swingarm bearings as well as one of the seals has failed on the bearing. I figure I'll just replace both while I'm at it but I'm having a heck of a time finding a sealed bearing to match.

Size: 40x17x13.25 (OD, ID, Length)
BMW Part #: 33 17 2311729
FAG Part #: 539816

Anyone know of an alternative sealed bearing? I'd rather not shell out $47 ea. at the dealership.

EDIT:

This bearing may work:

https://www.123bearing.com/bearing-539816-A-FAG.php

The picture shows a sealed bearing but I can't see that it says "sealed" anywhere in the description. Thoughts?

[ Edited Wed Apr 25 2018, 06:20pm ]
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bwanainoz
Sat Apr 21 2018, 11:26pm
Registered Member #630
Joined: Sun Jan 20 2013, 10:11am

Posts: 47
Go here, https://shop.maxbmw.com/fiche/PartsSearch.aspx?&searchtype=undefined&parts=33%2017%202%20311%20729 , click on the bearing image and zoom in on it and you will be able to see that the BMW OEM is made in Hungary, and also obtain the bearing specs. The 123Bearing you mention above is also made in Hungary.
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r083rt
Sat Apr 21 2018, 11:41pm
Registered Member #857
Joined: Fri Oct 02 2015, 09:47am

Posts: 95
Good idea @bwanainoz, I didn't think to check if MAX had a picture of the part.

If in fact the bearing pictured on 123bearing is what you get, then it is the exact same bearing as OEM for ~$21.00 USD cheaper.

I may give them a call Monday to verify.



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bwanainoz
Sun Apr 22 2018, 04:49am
Registered Member #630
Joined: Sun Jan 20 2013, 10:11am

Posts: 47
If I know the bearing size and type, and you do in this instance, I contact the local to me bearing supplier and they are able to match with a quality bearing (Timken, NSK, etc). I did this last week when I purchased new Timken steering head bearings for the HP2 from the local supplier.
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r083rt
Tue May 01 2018, 03:40pm
Registered Member #857
Joined: Fri Oct 02 2015, 09:47am

Posts: 95
Got the bike all buttoned up over the weekend and took it for a bath. The reassembly went smooth and did an oil change as well.

The bearings from 123bearing.com are in fact the same as the factory bearings.

During the disassembly, the stainless steel bolt that holds the muffler to the frame broke off. Needless to say, drilling out the bolt was a futile effort. After trying a number of things to get the bolt out, I ended up grinding off the captive nut on the frame and will be securing it with a stainless nyloc nut and lock washer.

She's all clean and ready to get dirty again this summer!





[ Edited Tue May 01 2018, 03:41pm ]
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SnoDawg
Wed May 02 2018, 12:23am
Registered Member #659
Joined: Sun Apr 28 2013, 12:27pm

Posts: 192
Congratulations!!

Your bike looks great and is ready for another season of riding.

Sno Dawg
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