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Fork and steering settings for Supermoto wheels
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davidplankco
Wed Aug 04 2010, 09:48am
Registered Member #262
Joined: Thu Jul 01 2010, 01:02pm

Posts: 5
It has long been known that the supermoto wheels were an after thought for the the HP2E and that many owners complain that the front end is too soft for fast road riding.
Having been involved with supermoto competitively for many years and having won the Irish championship and been runner up in the british championship in SM1 and SM2 i have been very keen to get the best out of these machines without resorting to major alterations or replacement of parts e.g. the front forks as the machine should truely have a dual purpose for on and off road.
The following should make a major difference for anyone who feels that they are not getting the best from this machine on the road.
1) The bike should firstly be put on a centre stand with the back wheel touching the ground.
2) Gently move the steering from left to right  and when it is passing through its central straight ahead point you should feel a slight notch and the forks should stay straight ahead by themselves, if they dont then follow this procedure.
3) Pull the Fuel breather pipe out of the black holed head stock securing nut.
3) Loosen off the clamping bolts on on the top yoke that secure the left and right fork legs.
4) Loosen of the headstock clamping bolt on the top yoke.
5) Insert a 10mm allan key into the headstock securing nut and tighten gently whilst slowly moving the forks through the straight ahead position until you feel this notch and the steering is fir to stay in the central position by itself.
6) When this has been achieved firstly tighten the fork leg clamping bolts to 6lbft.
7) Tighten headstock clamping bolt on the top yoke to 6lbft.
8) Push fuel breather pipe back into the holed head stock securing nut.
9) With a small flat screwdriver remove rubber plug from bottom of right hand fork leg.
10) With a larger flat head screwdriver, turn the brass screw clockwise until it stops and then turn back anticlockwise slightly until it clicks or notches into its first position, then replace the rubber plug.
11) With a small screwdriver turn the small brass compression valve adjuster screw at the top of the left hand fork leg clockwise until it stops and then turn anticlockwise counting five clicks or notches.
12) With a small screwdriver turn the small brass rebound valve adjuster screw at the top of the right hand fork leg clockwise until it stops and then turn anticlockwise counting five clicks or notches.
Note : This compression and rebound setting is an optimum setting and can be sensitively adjusted prom these points dependent upon road surface and personal preference.
I hope that this is helpful to anyone who has become frustrated when trying to find a good fast road setting.
This setup should make your bike fell planted and the chassis very reactive to steering input whilst taking away that horrible diving effect under braking that makes the backend step out too quickly due to the weight transfer.
Kind regards
David


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wcoe
Wed Oct 10 2018, 04:06pm
Registered Member #1025
Joined: Tue Oct 02 2018, 04:32am

Posts: 1
I had that center notch with original steering bearings, but it seems to be gone with new bearing freshly installed. I didn't think the notch was supposed to be there.
Is it???
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